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Design Solutions

Identifying Mystery Fabrics
A careful burn test can reveal the fiber content of a fabric of unknown origin
by Sharon L. Anderson

CHALLENGE: I am having some difficulty in identifying fabrics and fibers I am using for a vintage window treatment. I have purchased a large quantity of material from an antique store, and I would like to create a beautiful window treatment for my client. Could you please offer some tips and suggestions for identifying fabrics—if that is possible?

SOLUTION: It sounds as if your vintage fabric will be beautiful in your client’s home. The older the fabric, it seems, the more charm it has!

Fabric identification is a science, and it can be best accomplished through “burn tests.” In fact, this is how professionals attain this information. Warning: All fibers will burn. Only a skilled burner should do a burn test. All fiber tests should be conducted in the proper area by a skilled professional. Make sure the burn is conducted in a metal bucket or a non-plastic sink. Some of the ways fibers are identified are as follows:

Natural Fibers:
• Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited, it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash that is left crumbles easily. Small samples burn out as a small burning wick from a candle would burn.
• Linen also is a plant fiber. It is different from cotton, though. Linen takes longer to ignite than cotton because the fibers that make up the yarn are longer. The fabric that is close to the ash is very brittle. If it is linen, it will extinguish easily and you can blow it out as you would a candle.
• Silk burns readily as it is a protein fiber. It sometimes has a steady flame and sometimes it flickers. Most notably, it smells like burning hair. The ash that’s left crumbles easily. It does not extinguish as easily as cotton and linen.
• Wool is also a protein fiber, but it is harder to ignite than silk. The weave is looser than silk so once it’s going it can burn steadily, although it often is more difficult to keep burning. Like silk, it also smells like burning hair.
Man-made Fibers:
• Rayon is regenerated and almost pure cellulose (wood fibers). It burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The smell is close to burning leaves.
• Polyester is a polymer produced from coal, water, air and petroleum products. It melts and burns at the same time. The burning ash can bond quickly to any surface, including skin. The smoke is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard.
• Acetate also is made from cellulose. It burns readily with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The smell is similar to burning wood chips.
• Nylon is made from petroleum. It melts and then burns rapidly if the flame remains held to the melted fiber. It smells like burning plastic.
• Acrylic is made from natural gas and petroleum. It has air-filled pockets and burns rapidly. If a match or cigarette is dropped onto acrylic it will ignite the fabric and burn rapidly. The smell is very harsh.

Older fabrics pose problems—they are more prone to breaking down. I would suggest paying the additional cost to have your vintage fabric flame-proofed for the extra safety that provides. If you cannot find a company in your area that will flameproof it, check with your local drapery workroom; someone there may be able to refer you to a company that will treat the fabric so it is not as quick to burn.

Editor’s note: This is a continuing series of articles written by Sharon L. Anderson that will answer some of the many questions we receive at Draperies & Window Coverings as well as questions Anderson has encountered in her own business. If you have a question you would like Anderson to address, please send it to:
Design Solutions
c/o Draperies & Window Coverings
1724 E. Grand Ave.
Lindenhurst, IL 60046
Fax: (847) 356-9013
E-mail: DesignSol@dwcdesignet.com