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Big Picture
Treating Arch Top Windows
Two methods for treating popular window shapes that will make the
workroom and the customer smile.
by Cheryl Strickland
There
is more than one way to treat the arch top windows we run across
in many of our clients’ homes. Here are two of them—one, a sunburst
that requires no template; the other a rod pocket treatment that
requires a template to exactly match the arch’s curve.
SUNBURST
Creating a sunburst can be an intricate, time-consuming and costly
process. But here’s a gorgeous one you can create in less than 30
minutes using no rods, brackets or custom frame! What’s more, no
template is required for this fabricating method. Simply measure
around the arch and across the bottom.
YARDAGE
Two times fullness is plenty for this treatment, even if using sheer
fabric or lace. (As the fabric is pulled into the center creating
the sunburst, the radius decreases, which increases the fullness
tremendously. You want a pretty treatment, but as little fullness
in the middle as possible.) Multiply the distance around the arch
by two. The treatment will be railroaded, so this is the amount
of needed yardage.
SEWING
1. Turn and sew small side hems in the cut ends of the piece of
fabric.
2. Fold over and press one selvage to the back of the fabric to
eliminate it and create a finished edge.
3. Sew two gathering threads (long basting stitches) through both
thicknesses of fabric along this folded edge.
4. Pull up the gathering threads to one half of the original size.
This is the same size as the distance around the arch because we
used two-times fullness.
5. Sew the loop half of hook-and-loop tape onto the backside of
the folded edge, stitching exactly where the gather threads were
sewn. Doing this applies the hook-and-loop tape and holds the gathers
in place at the same time.
6. There is no Step 6. You’re done!
MOUNTING
The secret to why these treatments look so pretty and are so easy
to do is that they are mounted directly to the window frame with
the other half of the hook-and-loop tape. The tape can be stapled
into the wood or use self-adhesives. (Caution: the self-adhesives
will not stick to mental very long. As the metal sweats in periods
of humidity and quick temperature changes, the tape will fall off.
Try a couple drops of super glue periodically if you must use self
adhesive on metal.)
As the hook-and-loop tape is stapled around the arch of the window,
it will need to be clipped into segments to follow around the curve.
The fabric is now attached around the arch by the hook-and-loop
tape. The excess fabric is all pulled to the bottom center of the
window and tied. The side hems are now lying across the bottom of
the window.
Tying is a difficult task while trying to hold all of that fabric
together. Cable ties are the perfect solution. You know, those small
plastic straps—one end slips into the other end and teeth keep it
from sliding back out. Cable ties can be purchased at any building
or electrical supply store. I’ve also heard from my seminar attendees
that they can be purchased at wholesale club outlets in bulk bags
very inexpensively.
Cut off all but about two inches of the excess fabric and cover
it with a rosette that is pinned or sewn on. If you prefer, leave
about 10 inches of fabric instead of two inches and use it to create
a self-rosette. Pull the cut ends out away from the tied area and
tuck them back under to the cable tie. Now, place another cable
tie around these ends to hold them in place around the original
cable tie.
(Special note: Make sure your fabric is at least four inches wider
than one-half of the distance across the bottom of the arch. If
not, you will run out of fabric when trying to pull it to the center.)
Try it! Your customers will love the gorgeous look, the great
price, and how easy these sunbursts are to take down, clean and
put back up.
ALTERNATIVES
If you have no convenient place to mount the hook-and-loop tape
around the window, you may want to consider using a new special
type of rodding that is L-shaped with the hook half of the hook-and-loop
tape already laminated onto one side. This rod is called The Perfect
Sunburst and is available in Canada and the United States.
The rod can be mounted easily around the arch with screws (inside
mount) or brackets (outside mount) because it is flexible. The treatment
itself can be made with the exact steps already described.
Here’s another design idea: Use decorative shirring tape in place
of the gathering threads. Imagine four-inch-wide smocking or pencil
pleats around the outside edge of the sunburst. They’re gorgeous!
There are also hook-and-loop tape compatible shirring tapes available
that already have the loop fiber in the tape. This eliminates the
need for applying the hook-and-loop tape onto the back of the tape.
ARCHED ROD POCKET TREATMENTS
If you are familiar with making templates, this next treatment will
give you another option for treating an arch top window—it requires
a template to exactly duplicate the shape of the arch. Be sure to
use heavy-duty construction-weight plastic and permanent marker
for your template.
Arched rod pocket (or gathered) treatments that are also to be arched
on the bottom can be made with both a straight top and bottom. The
arched hardware not only shapes the fabric into the arch at the
top, but also pulls it into the arch at the bottom. If the treatment
is to be straight across the bottom, the top of the treatment must
be shaped to perfectly fit the arch.
BOTTOM UP
To do this, the treatment is straight across the top to start with
and the bottom must be formed first. Turn whatever bottom and side
hem is desired. Now shirr the straight top to the exact fullness
that it will be on the window. This can be done with a temporary
rod pocket or gathering threads.
Clamp the treatment onto the worktable and dress the folds down
the length of the fabric as they would be hanging on the window.
(Special hint: Run a straight edge or rod through the bottom hem
before the corners are sewn to keep the folds evenly in place from
top to bottom.) If you have a vertical or slant table, simply hang
the treatment with the hem gathered onto the straight edge or rod
at the top so you can easily reach the top of the treatment.
Now lay the template on top of the fabric one inch longer than
the exact finished length. Draw around the template and remove it.
Open out the fullness. The line now becomes small dashes because
the pencil did not mark where the fabric was folded. Connect the
dashes into a continuous curve and cut along this curve. You are
cutting the exact shape needed to create the arch when it is gathered
because you drew it when it was gathered. Press under the extra
added one inch to form a finished edge.
FINISHING UP
Cut a bias strip of fabric double the width of the pocket—and header
if you want one. Fold the raw edges to meet each other at the back
of the strip and press. (Just like making a band.) Now, top stitch
both sides of the strip of fabric onto the curved top edge of the
treatment. It is usually much easier to use this separate piece
rather than trying to turn down a double-turn top on a curve. But,
you can use that method if you prefer.
If your treatment has a severe arch and stitching a bias strip
will be too difficult, face the edge of the curve with a curved
piece of fabric cut the exact same shape. (As you would cut a facing.)
Stitch both edges of the facing and another row for the header,
if any.
Try this method; you’ll find it simple, fast and very exacting.
Cheryl
Strickland is owner of Professional Drapery School, Swannanoa, NC,
and is an internationally acclaimed speaker with 20 years experience
in the window coverings industry. She is the publisher and editor
of Sew WHAT?, an international monthly newsletter for professional
drapery workrooms. |