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Workroom Operations

by Kitty Stein, WCAA

Just because you have the three basic sewing machines -- straight stitch, serger and blindstitch (D&WC, April 1997) -- doesn't mean you don't need any others. As your workroom grows, you may find certain products frequently reoccur or even dominate your production. There may be certain repetitive sewing operations that could be done far more quickly to greatly increase your production. Familiarizing yourself with the specialty sewing machines that are out there will enable you to determine when you are ready for them. Singer 20U Machine This machine is a commercial zigzag sewing machine. Commercial means it is more heavy-duty than a home machine, but not the caliber of an industrial machine. It won't quite take the heaviest fabrics and multi-layers as easily as the industrial machine. While it can be used as a straight stitch machine, its value is in zigzagging. The three main uses for this machine are to sew rings on shades, zigzag over cord for gathering and tacking pleats. If tacking pleats is to be one of its main functions, then the company from which it is purchased can raise the presser foot higher than normal so most pleats fit under the foot. Once this is done, it also will take a longer needle. Another use for this machine is to overcast the edges of the tops and bottoms of the side hems of draperies. Most workrooms hand-close these edges, but using a very close zigzag stitch and monofilament thread can make a very acceptable finish. Using this machine regularly as a straight stitch machine would not be efficient. Its "straight" stitch is not perfectly straight, although that's usually hard to determine. Also it is much, much slower than a regular industrial straight stitch machine. The beauty of this machine is that you get professional zigzagging at a much lower cost than an industrial zigzag machine. Needle Feed Machine This machine is similar to a walking foot machine, but many workrooms have not heard of it. In a regular drop-feed straight stitch machine, the feed dog moves the bottom layer of fabric backward. The needle goes straight up and down and the presser foot tends to push the top layer forward. Consequently, when you get to the end of a long seam, the top layer invariably comes out longer than the bottom layer. You also have to pull the front and back tight to assist the feeding and to eliminate puckering. With the needle feed machine, the needle actually moves up, forward, down into the fabric and then pulls the fabric backward along with the feed dogs. This motion enables the layers of fabric to feed evenly through the machine with no puckering. Even if you sewed thin lining to velvet, it would come out even at the end of the seam with no puckering, and you wouldn't have had to man-handle it to get it through the machine. This machine also would be a terrific asset if you have very slippery fabric to sew. Even, puckerless seams are the beauty of the needlefeed machine, which can sew up to 5,000 stitches per minute (spm). Walking Foot Machine Where the needle feed machine has a double feed, the walking foot machine has a triple feed. The needle, the feed dog and the presser foot all feed the fabric through the machine. The presser foot itself will rise, move forward, drop down and pull the fabric with the feed dogs through the machine. This machine is more heavy-duty than the needle feed machine and is used mainly for sewing slippery and heavy fabrics, many layers of fabric and cording. If this machine is set up to sew very heavy fabrics, then it is not likely to sew lightweight fabrics and sheers successfully. Because of its even feed, twisted cord casings can be eliminated. The walking foot machine, which can sew 2,800 to 4,000 spm depending on the model, is a tremendous asset to upholstery and slipcovering businesses. Compound Feed Machine If it is necessary to sew exceptionally heavy fabric (such as canvas, heavy upholstery fabric or leather) and many layers of it, a compound feed machine may be the answer. This machine has the same features as the walking foot machine with the addition of a second foot that "walks" to evenly feed all layers through the machine. Because very heavy stiff fabric may require more room to manipulate through the machine, it may be necessary to have a long arm machine. Pleat Sewers and Tackers These machines are used primarily in the fabrication of pinch pleated draperies. The pleat sewing machine stitches a seam 3 1/2 to five inches long. A pleat tacking machine will do a "spot" tack after the pleat has been stitched and folded on another machine. There is a combination machine that will sew the pleat and tack it with a bar tack at the same time. This machine is more commonly used in mass production. These pleat sewing and tacking machines are either cam driven or computerized. The cam-driven machines only do one function, e.g. either bar tack or F-tack. The computer models offer adjustability to either "L", "F" or straight tack. Again, this type of tacking is more commonly seen in mass produced goods. The best set-up for a small custom workroom would be to use a pleat sewer and a separate spot tacker being sure that these machines are set up to sew the thicknesses and fabric weights needed. Again, if this machine is set up for very heavy fabric, it may not sew sheers. One nice thing about the spot tacker is that it does not require a bobbin -- a time-saver in itself. Another thing to keep in mind when shopping for a pleat sewing machine is that they must have a good clamping system to hold the fabric tightly while being stitched. These are very fast machines and it is very difficult to manually hold the fabric while the machine is operating. To get the needed clamping power, the machines may be hooked up to air, which would require an air compressor. A super-deluxe machine has a pleat folder attached to its table. In this operation, the pleat is folded and then put under the tacker for the pleat to be stitched and bartacked at the same time. An experienced operator can accomplish these tasks in about 10 seconds. This set up would greatly increase production of pinch pleated draperies. Overseaming or Edging Machine This machine is very small and doesn't really look like a sewing machine. It is used to overcast edges, e.g. the tops and bottoms of double-folded side hems in draperies. The stitching from this machine may appear just a little more professional than the 20U zigzag stitch. The stitch itself looks like that used to make button holes in clothing. The edges are passed between two wheels that hold them for the needle to penetrate. A nice feature of this machine is that it also does not have a bobbin. Ruffling Machine Industrial ruffling/pleating machines are available, but they are very pricey. If a workroom is doing volume ruffling on a daily basis, then an investment in one of these machines would be warranted. However, there is a very reasonably priced ruffling machine called the Johnson Ruffler. One company declares this machine to have the most consistent ruffle of any on the market. This little machine looks like the old-time Singer home sewing machine. The ruffling is done by a metal bar that pushes tucks under the needle. The metal bar is a bit fragile and easily breakable. However, if you put two bars together, one on top of the other, it not only strengthens the bar, but allows it to ruffle heavier fabrics tighter. This machine will ruffle almost any light- to medium-weight fabric from laces to some upholstery fabrics. On top of that, it will ruffle and sew it to the body fabric at the same time. As with any machine, it would be a good idea to try it out yourself with the type of fabrics you will need to ruffle before purchasing. Specializing the Specialty Machines Sometimes a specialty machine doesn't exactly fit the need and may require some modifications. Many companies will custom design or alter machines. For example, a pillow tufting tacker is basically the same as the pleat tacker except it is made to tack through up to 3 1/2 inches of foam. The tacker can be factory set to one of several designs to make it more attractive. For a workroom specializing in fabricating chair cushions, this machine could be a terrific production booster. Shopping Following are considerations to remember as you shop for specialty machines: Training: Machines generally don't come with directions telling you what you need to know to operate them. Discuss training with the company from which you are purchasing it. Too many workrooms out there have idle equipment no one knows how to use. If you are not close to the company with whom you are dealing, then maybe they can recommend a workroom in your area that may be willing to train you. You also might try the Internet to find people who could help you. Don't give up. Machines can save you time and greatly increase your profitability. Timing: Before you go shopping, know how long it takes to do the operation you are seeking to mechanize. Also, know how often you do this work. This will enable you to determine how soon the machine will pay for itself. Once it's paid for, it will be clear profit from then on. Sample: Be sure to try out the machines on the fabrics you need it for. A specialty machine may not sew sheer and very heavy or upholstery weight fabrics, too. Get a machine that will do the largest percentage of your work. Specialty machines are built to be time-savers. They perform one function and do it well. If a workroom is regularly repeating an operation that can be performed by a machine that is many times faster, then purchasing or leasing the equipment makes sense. While a machine is speeding up an operation, it is giving you more time to produce more product to bring in more money. That's what makes a business even more successful. And that's what makes the owner more happy! A special thanks for the material supplied by the following companies: Camatron Sewing Machine, Inc., (212) 691-0470 Maxant Master Inc., (516) 764-2485 Pfaff-Pegasus USA Inc., (800) 241-8976 If you have any questions or comments about this article, previous articles or any topic if interest to workrooms, please contact me at: Workroom Operations Draperies & Window Coverings 666 Dundee Rd., Ste. 807 Northbrook, IL 60062-7913. Fax: (847) 498-0231 E-mail: workroomop@dwcdesignet.com Web site: www.workroomconcepts.com Kitty Stein is a 20-year veteran of the drapery workroom field, having owned and operated her own business for 16 years and having taught classes on window treatment construction. Until 1990, Stein and a partner owned a workroom with nine employees. She since has opened her own smaller workroom, Workroom Concepts, that has just one employee. She also does workroom consulting, seminar speaking and is the author of Order in the Workroom available through Draperies & Window Coverings.