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WORKROOM OPERATIONS

Hand-Sewing with Ease
Simple tricks can make hand work less a chore .

by Kitty Stein, CWP, WCAA

Hand sewing has become a necessary process with the abundance of interlined draperies being done in this country today. I just finished a pair of bump interlined and blackout lined panels for myself. What a learning experience!

I had to hand-hem the sides and then sew on rings as I was Italian stringing these panels. They have rod pocket headings so, thank goodness, I didn’t have to hand tack the pleats. The face fabric is a looser weave so it was not a problem, but sewing through blackout lining and bump was work!
Hand sewing is not my favorite task but the lessons I remembered and learned in this sewing project made it much more tolerable.

THREAD
• Thread has a right and wrong end: The end that comes off the spool first needs to go through the needle with the knot going on the end that is last off the spool and cut. This does make a difference. I had knotting problems when I forgot to do this.

• Silamide thread: Use this thread if you have the correct color. It is already lubricated so the thread pulls through the fabric easier. I didn’t have the correct color so this was not an option this time.

• Thread Heaven: This product is to lubricate thread and prevent knotting as you sew. I started out running my thread through Thread Heaven, but I still had knotting problems.

• Bees wax: I pulled my thread through bees wax and then ironed it to melt it. That will lubricate the thread. Without ironing it, it will be tacky. This worked best with little to no knotting problems.

• Single thread: Use a single thread for sewing the sides.

• Four threads: Double the thread and thread the bend through the needle. Knot all four strands together for sewing on rings. This is stronger and faster, especially when you are dealing with the weight in my panels.

NEEDLES
In my April article (see “The Haystack of Needles, D&WC April 2006, page 66), I discussed needles and encouraged you to try many kinds. I hope you are doing that and saving those that didn’t work so well the first time, because they just might work better on another project.

• Long needles: Hemming really requires as long a needle as you can find because you should be taking longer stitches than normal. If you are sewing through many or thick layers, then a long needle is necessary just to take a single stitch through all the layers. This is where I was so glad that I had invested in a variety of different needles.

I pulled out all my longest needles starting with millinery needles. However, their thickness for the longest length was so difficult to pull through the layers. I then switched to a Gold Eye Quilt Basting Needle, Size 7, 2 1/4 inched long. What a difference. This needle was a little thinner, and being Gold Eye better quality, so it was much easier to use.

• Short needles: I have a small hand so having to use the long needles for the side hems was a little uncomfortable, but it was the best of all options. However, when it came to sewing the rings on, I tried a smaller needle, because I would be taking smaller stitches. I also didn’t want a needle that was too long because it takes longer to pull through the fabrics and you need more thread at the end to knot or anchor your thread.

I settled on a Gold Eye 1 7/8 inches long with a long eye. It is one of those odd needles I had collected over the years and had lost its original packaging. I suspect it is an embroidery needle. It gave me enough needle length to pull through all the thicknesses and the large eye allowed me to double-thread it easily.

Occasionally I did run my needles through my hair to lubricate. It helped but I could not do that for every stitch.

• Needle storage: I have found that those small booklet photo albums for four- by six-inch photos are wonderful to store needles. Very easy to flip through to see what sizes you have. Be sure the plastic pages have an enclosed bottom because I have some that don’t.

This experience has certainly made me a believer in Gold Eye needles! I also was very glad I am a packrat and saved all my old needles!

EASING THE PROCESS
• Thimble: I am sure many of you say you don’t want to use a thimble. I didn’t until I had to hand tack pinch pleats with double headings. Since that time, many years ago, I feel naked if I don’t have a thimble on. My favorite is a leather thimble.

In this instance I was too lazy to go find it so I used a metal thimble with gridded sides and top and the top has a rim around it. See the accompanying photograph. Because of my small hands, its construction was invaluable in pushing the long needle through the side hems. I discovered that rim around the top is an incredible asset! You might want to try a variety of thimbles too!

• Needle Grabber: This is a thin circle of rubber about 1 3/8 inches in diameter. This enables you to grip the needle to pull it through the fabric faster.

Beeswax for grip: I mentioned above that bees wax, unironed is tacky. As I was sewing, I had a “light bulb moment.” I rubbed my fingers over the beeswax. It made them tacky enough to pull the needle through the fabric without using the grabber for most of my sewing. On top of that, I also discovered that it made my thimble stay on my finger! This was a wonderful discovery because I have never been able to make metal thimbles stay on my finger. That is one reason I preferred the leather thimble.

• Weight/clamp the ends: As you sew hems, it increases your speed if you can weight and clamp the ends of your side. Being able to pull taut on your side will be more comfortable and faster.

• Standing: The fastest way to hem panels like I did is to do it while they are lying on the table. For long panels, it becomes a strain on your back and legs. To reduce some of the stress, put one foot on a low shelf under the table and stand on one foot. Shift back and forth as your leg tires. Use a stool to prop your foot if you do not have a shelf.

• Sitting: If you have a back problem, it would be much healthier if you can sit while you sew. Use a bar stool to sit at the table. Be sure the footrests on the stool are comfortable. If you sit at a machine, use the presser foot of the machine to hold the end of your side so you can pull it taut for sewing.

I hope I have presented one or two tips that you weren’t aware of. Always check out the quilt departments in your local stores as they often have wonderful tools that will save you much time. If you save a few seconds in a process that you are doing almost every day, those seconds will add up to a nice savings.

Anything that reduces your stress in sewing, whether physical or mental, makes your job much more enjoyable as well as healthy. You love what you are doing or you wouldn't be doing it. Pick out a tip or two that you want to try. Put them on your “To Do” list and love what you are doing even more!